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Juchitán
and the Authentic Searchers for Danger 
[LAS AUTENTICAS BUSCADORAS DEL PELIGRO]
Here, the sun is a smudge of red lipstick in the sky and time seems to walk on high heels. In Juchitán, Oaxaca, years of history and the conditions of a matriarchal society have placed the inhabitants in a unique world where gays and transvestites live with complete tolerance.
In this place gays are called by the Indian Zapotecan word, muxe or mampo, which means woman. The open-mindedness is such that many people feel that to have a muxe in the family brings good luck and is even a blessing. In fact, for many mothers it is much better to have a gay son than to have a daughter who sooner or later will leave the family. For the mothers of Juchitán, gay sons promise eternal company and support in the household duties and family businesses.
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"On the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, every family considers it a blessing to have one gay son"
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The town of Juchitán is located in the southern Isthmus of Tehuantepec in the state of Oaxaca, located almost in the middle of the south of Mexico. Like the rest of Oaxaca, it is famous for its indigenous peoples, ancient traditions, black pottery, and cuisine.
"The Macedonia Alcala, that was my theatre," exclaims Doña Emy, with a nostalgic twinkle in her eye. Sitting in her favourite spot on the window ledge of her humble Xochimilco abode you could be forgiven for thinking that this aging star of Oaxaca’s stage would be quietly living out her years, reminiscing about her glorious youth. But step inside her eccentric beauty salon, half of which is set aside for her prize-winning altar creations, and it is clear this is a woman who still screams ‘theatre’.
In Juchitán people believe that boys are born facing up and girls are born facing down. Therefore, a family knows immediately when a muxe is born- a boy born facing down. However, there are other ways that parents detect if their son is gay. When asked how they know, one mother answered, "pretty soon you figure it out since he begins to play with dolls or likes to paint his nails, and then, well, you know."
The women of Juchitán organize the family or village parties, they drink beer and dance on an improvised dance floor while the men sit on the sidelines drinking and talking. Like the women, the muxe participate in the city's traditional fiestas and influence the parties known as "velas" by deciding on the fashion, music, and the general organization of the celebrations. They even have a fiesta that is their very own called, "The Party of the Authentic Intrepid Ones Who Search for Danger." In fact, the gays in Juchitán always refer to themselves as "The Intrepid Ones."
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One could say that gays in Juchitán produce and cultivate the aesthetic of everyday life. They decide on the fashion and are in charge of elaborating the regional costumes, decorating the parties with paper cut-outs and ornaments, and designing the processional floats. They are also involved in cooking the regional foods and candies and even teach many of the dances. If a woman wants to look good she goes to a muxe who will offer advice on hairstyles, fashion, etc. In fact, almost all the hair salons in Juchitán are run by gays.
"The Party of the Authentic Intrepid Ones who Search for Danger" has been going on for 15 years and lasts for two nights. Like young women in adolescence, the transvestites are taken to the festival on the arm of an older borther or father. The party takes place in November. It is organized at a warehouse with a laminated plastic roof, which is adorned with beautiful bright colored paper streamers.
On the first night the participants dress provocatively. They show off the curves and legs and enjoy seeing "who produces most jealousy." This is know of beauty pageant influenced by international mores where gays wear daring clothing that includes fishnet stockings, miniskirts, transparent dresses, and blouses with a bold, open neck. Bright gaudy make-up covers their dark brown skin and their hair has the dry luster of recently dyed hair. They spend the night dancing to sandunga and salsa music. Inevitably someone is crowned queen. (This is reminiscent of the spectacular balls that take place within the transvestite community in New York City.)
The second night of this party is called "Cleaning of the Pot." Here, the outlandish clothing is put aside and they dress modestly like "our mothers and grandmothers." The party continues all night until the mascara drips down their cheeks and the crowned queen proclaims that it has been the best night of her life.
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READ MORE ABOUT THE STORY:
TRAVEL+LEISURE®NOVEMBER2005
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After a cigarette and the last of the warm beer they slowly begin to leave the party. These "women-spirits who live in men's bodies" stumble through the narrow streets to their mothers' houses. Their high stilettos seem to almost break beneath them.
Jennifer Clement, VUELO magazine, October 2002
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